The Little Owl is the end result of the dream of Chef Joey Campanaro. Having earned his stripes in some of busiest and most respected kitchens in the Big Apple, he finally opened his own place. Hailing from an Italian-American family where he first discovered his love of cooking at his grandmother's side in the generous warmth of a family kitchen, Joey decided to shake off the intensity of large kitchens with numerous chefs and create the kind of place which celebrated his love of Mediterranean and Italian cuisine. Cuisine created for happy diners in the sort of modestly sized place which lent itself to a more personal relationship with food and folk.

Enlisting the services of his erstwhile colleague, they set about creating a neighborhood eatery of the most desirable kind. The relatively small dining room only seats 33 guests, and expectant diners can be seen sipping wine at the bar and in the street while they wait for a table to open up. While the intimate venue with its liberal wood-panelled warmth and beautiful floral arrangements is part of the appeal, it is really for the lovely food that people are willing to wait.

The Little Owl is work of love and this is no more apparent than in the delightful menu. This is simple food made with the utmost care and enthusiasm for the delightful flavors of fresh seasonal produce, treated to a touch of culinary idiosyncrasy here and there to bring about classics combinations in their best incarnations. The Gravy Meatball Sliders, a signature dish, have already found their way into the catalogue of West Village favorite bites. These delicious morsels, like much of the food, are simple in conceit and executed to perfection. The meatballs are made from beef, pork and veal, bound together by boldness of pecorino. Served on garlic brioche buns, these are a scrumptious delight not to be missed.

The Sunflower Salad makes for a light and lovely lunch, perhaps with a cool, crisp glass of Pinot Grigio. Dinner offers some irresistible wonders, from the likes of a Diver Scallops appetizer served with spinach, capers and a lemon-leek noisette to a succulent entree of Colorado Lamb T-Bone with goat's cheese potato fritters and watercress. Fish features prominently on both the menu and specials board, typically prepared to extract aromatic freshness, then finished off with a touch of Mediterranean flare for that boldly evocative melange of toothsome loveliness.

As far as New York Restaurants go, there seems to be a paucity of places which offer such simple, vibrant dishes. After all, when it comes to chefs who cook with love there is an implicit reverence for great ingredients. This recipe of warmth and simple food cooked with passion is exactly what makes The Little Owl such a coveted destination for diners looking to throw off the shackles of pretentious New York Restaurants. Few pleasures can compare to eating worthy dishes in a setting which invites a celebration of shared warmth and simple beauty. A dream realized, The Little Owl nourishes every sense and leaves you hoping that wait-list won't be too long when you return.